Continuing work on the timber grid. The front wall of the main structure was made from the original kit grid, with the grid pieces measuring 11/32″ wide by 5/16″ deep and the filler pieces measuring 1/4″ thick, leaving 1/16″ of the grid depth exposed. The front wall of the side addition was made from purchased basswood, with the grid pieces measuring 5/16″ wide by 5/16″ deep and the filler pieces measuring 1/4″ thick, also leaving 1/16″ of the grid depth exposed.
To cut down on the overall width of the structure, I approached the side walls differently. For these, I used grid pieces measuring 5/16″ wide by 1/8″ deep and the filler pieces measuring 1/16″ thick, still leaving 1/16″ of the grid depth exposed. I followed the horizontal pattern of the front wall but spaced the vertical beams evenly across the width of the wall. I marked the grid on the side wall of the addition and cut the beams to match. There is no right-hand vertical beam on the side wall since the horizontal beams will abut the corner beam of the front wall of the addition, which will be turned perpendicular when built.
I notched the center beams as I had done for the front wall of the addition.
To get them even, I measured the bottom board first and locked them together in my gluing jig. I then used a triangle and pencil to mark the measurement across all the boards.
I cut the horizontal beams to abut the back vertical beam so I wouldn’t have to spackle the joins on the back surface. I cut filler pieces for the new grid from 1/16″ thick basswood. Cutting thinner wood is easier and faster. That and the lower cost of supplies are the reasons I switched to smaller thicknesses for the side walls.
I bought all this wood from National Balsa because finding 36″ lengths of basswood strips and sheets locally is impossible. They shipped fast, and it’s good quality wood.
I opted to omit windows on the upper two floors since these will be small rooms with interior doors and I need all the wall space I can get. There will be front-facing windows in each upper room (mudroom on the main floor, bathroom on the top floor), so there will be ample light. The bottom floor will have only the basement window on this side.
I’ve filled a few knots and joins in the beam structure so the grid and filler pieces are ready for painting. This particular wall likes to warp, so I ran the plywood board under water and pressed it flat to dry for several days. When it is not on my work table, it is pressed under magazines and paint cans. I won’t let it loose until it’s time for final assembly, which should fix the warp permanently.
With the opening for the front door assembly cut, I could finish the grid for the main front. I slipped the door into the new opening and taped the previous grid in place.
I cut two vertical pieces to finish the sides of the front door and a short horizontal just above the door.
The upper canopy (shown here with foam core board and wood scraps) will disguise the fact that these verticals don’t match with the upper existing design. Since the horizontal along the top doesn’t match either, I opted to leave off the horizontal detailing. This makes the door panel its own design element.
The overall grid still works as a cohesive design with the front door now a focal point.
I cut filler pieces to complete this section.
