Ratty side door – tetanus shot suggested

In following with the aging of the garage door, I wanted a metal side door that would show its age, perhaps a few dents. The easiest material to use would be plastic. I cut two rectangles of 0.04″ styrene sheet. Using a lighter, I heated up random sections and pressed in with a butter knife to create dents and an awl to create dings.

I used 3mm styrene to make an internal structure between the two rectangles to make a hollow door. You can see the scorch marks on the back side from the lighter.

I started with grey primer to grab the plastic. I’m showing the exterior only until the end since it was the same process on both sides.

I then painted both sides with acrylic paints to create corrosion.

I masked random areas with Winsor & Newton Masking Fluid. This is a pricey fluid used for watercolor painting; it covers any space you want to remain white on a painting.

It dries clear, and you paint over it.

I started with gloss Cherry Red by Krylon. I used an eraser to lift the rubbery masking after the paint dried.

Since the paint was dry to the touch but not yet cured, it also marred the gloss finish — an added bonus. No new paint on this old door.

I applied masking fluid again, following the initial patterns loosely.

The next color was Rust-Oleum Deep Forest in satin finish, which has a lot of blue tones to it.

Removing masking…and you can see the red and corrosion underneath.

Racing Green by Tamiya was the next color, then final masking. The white portions are where the masking fluid is still drying.

This last time, some of the paint lifted to the grey primer. I used acrylic paints to reapply the corrosion layer over the grey primer areas and to dirty the bottom and lead edge where hands would be constantly touching the door.

I was originally going to go with a grey door, but how boring. haaaaaa! The exterior was finished with gloss Cherry Red by Krylon since I liked how it “aged” the first time around. I barely waited for the paint to dry this time before attacking the finish and removing the masking. I wanted a truly battered door. :D

I love the way the dents and dings turned out.

I went with Rust-Oleum Deep Forest for the interior. I masked very little on the interior after the third paint coat since it would have been more protected from the elements but still subject to wear and tear.

The bottom gets the most abuse from perhaps being kicked closed or ramming into things inadvertently left in its path over the years.

Spray paints have recommendations such as applying second coats within 2 hours or waiting for 48 hours to prevent crazing (wrinkling). Since I was within that “don’t spray” time, I achieved some crazing. Often when I try to get crazing, I can’t, and when I want a pristine finish, I get crazing. At least it worked as intended this time.

Now to build a frame….

Categories: Bert's Depot
August 16, 2020 | 0 comments

Bullet holes in miniature

I thought an old garage door could use a busted window pane, so I drew a bullet hole freehand with an X-Acto blade.

I was rather pleased with how it turned out.

Just one hole in the window and one on the center of the panel. I didn’t want the garage to have been used as target practice. :D

Before installing the pane, I did some aging with spray painting, barely catching them with over spray to simulate dirt.

Categories: Bert's Depot
August 8, 2020 | 0 comments

Glass block window

I’ve started making a glass block window, and I am very pleased with the progress so far.

It looks like real glass.

The surface is wavy like the real deal, too.

Next up will be figuring out an approximation of a hopper vent (the tiny window insert that allows for airflow). :D

I originally wanted a working hopper vent for the window, but in the interest of saving time, I opted to make a solid window for the middle. I could have filled in the space with more glass blocks, but I like the break in the pattern the window provides. I built the window from styrene sheet, styrene rod and rippled water sheet.

As you know, I freely share nearly every process when I make things with very few exceptions. This process is one of those exceptions, so there is no tutorial or materials list at this time.

Categories: Whinnie's Terrace
July 8, 2020 | 0 comments

Quarenteeny Art Show Competition

The Quarenteeny Art Show Competition hosted by tiny art show is on!

Interestingly, art shows look the same in the future, only the patrons have changed.

———-
Turned wood stand by Bill; bench by minisx2; cat from HBS. I painted the tiny art by taking mini canvases to Paint Nite events.

Categories: Art and paintings, Droids and Robots
April 18, 2020 | 0 comments

Robox – dyeing trials

I bought the white Robox with the intent of altering the color to be more mechanical. The green (military) was darker than I wanted.

Painting is an option, but the figure can’t be taken apart other than removing at the shoulder, elbow, hip and knee ball joints. The head and ankles also separate but are smaller joints. The remaining connections have pins. That would make painting difficult and possibly disastrous, so I researched the possibility of using dye. It would still settle into joins, but it might be easier to control than paint.

I had two weapons and the shield to use for testing dye.

I bought a saucepan, tongs and aluminum trays for craft use only. I also had latex gloves and a clock with a second hand for tracking time. (Note: There are a number of product links in this post to the various dyes I tried. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases from those links.)

The first attempt was with iDye Poly in silver grey. You are to use the whole packet which dissolves in water, but that is also meant for a large amount of fabric. I didn’t use the intensifier since I was looking for a lighter color change.

I decided to cut the packet open in a sandwich bag to use less. I started with a plastic teaspoon measure of the dye in a half quart of water.

After one minute in the boiling dye water, the color came out a dark violet purple. Not exactly what I was going for. I dumped that water completely and then used half the amount of dye in a half quart of fresh water. As expected, this made the plastic lavender. There was just more red in the mix than I wanted. What I did like was the subtle variation in coverage, which gave the items more depth and character.

I cut the shield into pieces for the remaining trials. Since I had three additional colors, I decided to try all of them to make the final choice. First, one teaspoon of iDye Poly in gunmetal in a half quart of water. This was just another shade of purple.

Second, two teaspoons of RIT Dye More in Frost Grey in a half quart of water, which I did for short duration and longer duration for two good results of grey. Third, one teaspoon of RIT Dye More in Graphite in a half quart of water, which was again purple and dark. I opted for RIT Frost Grey in the medium tone.

I pulled the figure apart at the major ball joints.

I had to do three batches since the water would boil off as I went: arms, legs, then torso/head as one unit. My end result was a 95% success. In an unexpected but promising turn, the joints turned darker and that would save me time trying to detail those. One calf and one forearm turned a slightly different shade of grey with more brown in it; the calf is the most obvious. The functionality was impacted slightly in that the ball joints are very tight now (I suspect the heat impacted the two types of plastic differently), except the head rolls about. :D I added some mini hold wax to the head joint and fixed that issue. I will add some lubricant to the other joints.

I will add further details and aging, but I am pleased with the results so far. I can work on the mismatched coloration, or perhaps he’s had an overhaul or two with not-quite-right replacement parts. :D

Categories: Bert's Depot, Droids and Robots
March 9, 2020 | 0 comments