Continuing work on the screen door. I was already leaning toward the micro mesh, but the overwhelming votes for it helped seal the deal! :D I tried a couple more tests to see if I could tone down the sheen. I tried to spray paint the mesh once before, but I figured I’d try some other types.

Left to right:
- Rust-Oleum Self-Etching Primer, which is a grey-green. It bonds to metal to serve as a base for better paint adhesion.
- Rust-Oleum Aluminum Primer, which is light grey. It bonds specifically to aluminum, which is the mesh material. I bought this to prime the wagon wheel hubs, which are aluminum.
- Model Master Metalizer Lacquer in Gunmetal, which is…errrmmm…gunmetal grey. :D It’s a buffing paint meant to give a true metallic finish, so the finish is also meant to rub off.
- Krylon Paint/Primer in flat black. The standard base coat.
And, here are the test samples. All very nice colors and no more sheen. Apparently, I was the problem when I tried painting this mesh before. haaaaaaaa. The paint adhered just fine without clogging the holes.

On the door, I think the clear choices for color are the Rust-Oleum Self-Etching Primer and Model Master Metalizer Lacquer in Gunmetal. Both remove the sheen and the results are not too light or too dark.

I think I will go with the Rust-Oleum Self-Etching Primer for the simple fact that it is made to bond to metal. The Model Master Metalizer Lacquer did rub off easily when I ran a paper towel across it, while the Rust-Oleum Self-Etching Primer stayed put.