The eaves of the dormer are obviously formed by the roof pieces. Due to the die-cut tab-and-slot nature of this build, the slots are larger than necessary. When the pieces are glued together, there are gaps left around the tabs. In addition, the roof pieces don’t fit completely together, so it looks a little off to me.
To disguise this method of construction, I used 1/32″ thick balsa wood to create a veneer layer. This will hide any gaps and holes without adding too much thickness. I first measured the distance between the wall and the back of the gable trim.
Once that piece was cut, I popped in the gable trim to trace the remaining exposed eave in front.
I did the same for the opposite side, and it already looks cleaner.
I taped the pieces in order on my painting board with the bottoms level. I measured 1/4″ increments to the top. Using an awl, I indented the wood along those measurements.
I treated the wood with a wash of black paint followed by the crackle medium.
I then brushed on white paint. The lines are not all that visible, but I think it’s enough texture to do what I intended.
I glued the veneer pieces to the eaves and glued the now shortened gable trim piece in place. There will be trim along the front edges of the gable added later when the roof shingling is done.
This was my test area to see if I liked this finish, and I really do. I think it adds a lot of realism for relatively little effort. I wasn’t going to cut individual boards for the eaves the way I have for porch ceilings. :D So, I’ll be repeating this process for the large gables when I get to them.
I added two laser cut brackets under the dormer window as well as some square trim on the sides. I used this trim since it mimics the look of the inner wall connectors.
The more white paint I apply to the house, the more you notice the extra grunge layer I put on the portico when I assembled it. Later on, the rest of the house will get this same treatment.
